Module 1
Course Overview
The Army Mountain Warfare School (AMWS) is a 14-day course conducted at the Ethan Allen Training Site in Jericho, Vermont. It is one of the most technically demanding schools in the Army, with an average attrition rate of 35%. The course teaches military mountaineering, technical climbing, and mountain survival skills essential for operations in alpine terrain.
Course Structure:
- Technical Skills Phase (Days 1-5): Rock climbing, rappelling, anchor systems, rope management, belaying
- Mountain Survival Phase (Days 6-10): Shelter construction, cold weather survival, mountain navigation, altitude effects
- Mountain Operations Phase (Days 11-14): Culminating FTX with cliff assaults, rappel insertions, tactical patrols
Location & Environment:
The Ethan Allen Firing Range and surrounding Green Mountains provide varied terrain from granite cliff faces to dense forests and alpine meadows. Vermont weather is unpredictable—students may experience four seasons in a single day. Winter classes add ice climbing and operate in sub-zero conditions.
The Mountain Tab:
Upon successful completion, graduates are awarded the Mountain Tab, worn on the left shoulder. It signifies proficiency in military mountaineering and the ability to lead soldiers in mountainous terrain. The tab is permanent and recognized across all Army components.
History:
AMWS was established in 1983 by the Vermont Army National Guard. It has trained thousands of soldiers, including Special Operations Forces, conventional units, and allied military personnel. The school's motto "To The Top" reflects the demanding nature of mountain warfare.
Module 2
Physical Standards & Fitness
Mountain warfare demands a unique fitness profile. Upper body strength, grip endurance, and cardiovascular capacity at altitude are essential. You cannot fake fitness on a cliff face.
Minimum Physical Standards:
- APFT: 60 points minimum in each event (push-ups, sit-ups, 2-mile run)
- 12-Mile Ruck March: 35 lb dry + weapon, under 3:00:00
- Vertical Rope Climb: 20-foot rope with full combat equipment
- Grip Strength: Ability to hang from rock holds for 30+ seconds
- Body Weight: Power-to-weight ratio is critical on technical terrain
Mountain-Specific Fitness Requirements:
- Upper Body Strength: Pull-ups (15+), rope climbs, lock-off strength for climbing
- Core Stability: Essential for maintaining body position on rock faces
- Grip Endurance: Forearm stamina for sustained climbing and rope work
- Leg Strength: Step-ups, lunges with weight for steep terrain
- Cardiovascular: Hill running, stair climbing with load
Pre-Course Training Plan (8-12 Weeks):
- 3x/week: Climbing gym sessions — focus on technique and endurance
- 2x/week: Pull-up and grip training — dead hangs, fingerboard work
- 2x/week: Weighted step-ups and hill running
- 1x/week: Long ruck march (build from 6 to 12 miles)
- Daily: Push-ups, sit-ups, and core work
Fear of Heights:
Acrophobia is the #1 psychological reason for voluntary withdrawal. If you freeze on an exposed cliff face, you endanger yourself and your team. Exposure therapy at climbing gyms and via rappelling practice is essential before arrival.
Module 3
Gear & Equipment
Your equipment is your lifeline in the mountains. Vermont's weather can change instantly—proper gear selection and preparation mean the difference between success and hypothermia.
Clothing System (ECWCS):
- Base Layer: Moisture-wicking synthetic or wool—NO COTTON
- Mid Layer: Fleece or lightweight puffy for insulation
- Outer Layer: Waterproof/breathable shell for wind and rain
- Insulation: Heavy puffy jacket for static positions and camp
- Head & Hands: Balaclava, beanie, liner gloves, insulated climbing gloves
Footwear:
- Broken-in mountain boots with ankle support
- Gaiters to keep debris and snow out
- Multiple sock layers—liner + wool/synthetic
- Camp shoes for rest periods (optional but recommended)
Climbing Equipment:
- Climbing harness—military or commercial (UIAA certified)
- Helmet—climbing-specific, not ballistic
- Locking carabiners (minimum 4)
- Non-locking carabiners (minimum 4)
- Cordelette (18 feet of 7mm cord)
- Slings (120cm and 60cm)
- Belay device (ATC or similar)
- Prusik loops (2x 6-foot lengths of 6mm cord)
Field Gear:
- Rucksack (65+ liter capacity) with rain cover
- Sleep system rated to 0°F minimum
- Bivy sack for waterproof protection
- Foam sleeping pad for insulation
- Headlamp with red lens + extra batteries
- Sunglasses (category 3 or 4) and sunscreen
- First aid kit including blister care
- Water purification tablets or filter
Season-Specific Additions:
- Winter: Crampons, ice axe, avalanche transceiver, extreme cold weather sleeping bag (-20°F)
- Summer: Extra hydration capacity, insect repellent, lightweight sun hat
- Spring/Fall: Versatile layering system, rain gear essential
Module 4
Acclimatization & Altitude
Vermont's Green Mountains may not reach the heights of the Rockies or Himalayas, but altitudes up to 4,400 feet (Mount Mansfield) can still affect performance. Understanding altitude physiology and proper acclimatization is critical.
Altitude Effects:
- 2,000-4,000 ft: Minor performance decrease, increased breathing rate
- 4,000-6,000 ft: Noticeable exertion increase, possible mild headache
- Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): Headache, nausea, fatigue, dizziness
- Performance Impact: Reduced VO2 max, slower recovery, increased dehydration
Acclimatization Strategies:
- Arrive at altitude 24-48 hours before strenuous activity if possible
- Increase fluid intake—dehydration occurs faster at altitude
- Avoid alcohol and sedatives before and during training
- Eat carbohydrate-rich foods for energy
- Ascend gradually—sleep no more than 1,500 ft higher per day
Cold Weather Acclimatization:
Winter classes at AMWS operate in sub-zero temperatures. Cold acclimatization involves physiological adaptation to cold exposure, including increased metabolic heat production and improved peripheral circulation. Pre-exposure to cold through outdoor winter activities helps prepare the body.
Warning Signs:
- Hypothermia: Shivering, confusion, drowsiness, slurred speech
- Frostbite: Numbness, white/waxy skin, hard tissue
- Dehydration: Dark urine, headache, dizziness, decreased performance
- Altitude Illness: Severe headache, vomiting, ataxia (loss of coordination)
Buddy System:
Watch your teammates for signs of cold injury or altitude illness. Mental status changes are often the first indicator. If someone stops shivering in cold conditions, this is a medical emergency—act immediately.
Module 5
Technical Preparation
Technical skills separate successful AMWS graduates from those who struggle or fail. The ability to tie knots, manage ropes, and climb efficiently must become muscle memory before you arrive.
Knots You Must Know:
- Figure-8 Follow-Through: Primary tie-in knot for climbing
- Figure-8 on a Bight: Creating secure loops in rope
- Prusik Hitch: Friction knot for ascending ropes and backups
- Clove Hitch: Securing rope to carabiners quickly
- Munter Hitch: Emergency belay/rappel method
- Double Fisherman's: Joining two ropes or cord ends
- Water Knot: Joining webbing (slings and harnesses)
Climbing Basics to Practice:
- Body Positioning: Keep weight over feet, straight arms, hips close to wall
- Footwork: Precision placement, edging, smearing techniques
- Route Reading: Identifying holds and sequences before climbing
- Resting: Finding positions to shake out arms and recover
- Breathing: Controlled, rhythmic breathing during exertion
Belaying Fundamentals:
- PBUS method (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide)
- Never take brake hand off the rope
- Constant communication with climber
- Watch climber continuously—distraction kills
- Soft catches vs. hard catches depending on situation
Rappelling Skills:
- Proper setup of rappel device and backup systems
- Body position—L-shaped stance for control
- Brake hand management throughout descent
- Adding friction for heavy loads or steep terrain
- Self-rescue from stuck rappel (prusik ascent)
Practice Recommendations:
Spend at least 4 weeks at a climbing gym before AMWS. Focus on endurance climbing (30+ minutes continuous) rather than just difficult routes. Practice tying all knots blindfolded—you may need to tie them in the dark or with cold hands.
Module 6
Phase Breakdown & Graduation
Understanding what each phase entails allows you to prepare mentally and physically for the challenges ahead. Each phase builds upon the previous, culminating in a comprehensive field exercise.
Technical Skills Phase (Days 1-5):
- Day 1: Equipment issue, knots test, basic climbing movement
- Day 2: Belaying certification, anchor construction basics
- Day 3: Rock climbing on natural granite faces
- Day 4: Rappelling instruction and practice
- Day 5: Multi-pitch climbing and fixed rope systems
Mountain Survival Phase (Days 6-10):
- Extended field exercise in mountain environment
- Shelter construction using natural and improvised materials
- Water procurement from streams and snow
- Mountain land navigation—terrain association mastery
- Cold weather survival techniques
- Route planning and hazard assessment
Mountain Operations Phase (Days 11-14):
- Culminating Field Training Exercise (FTX)
- Cliff assaults with tactical equipment
- Rappel insertions under load
- Patrol base operations in mountainous terrain
- Leadership rotations and evaluation
- Graduation requirements demonstration
Graduation Requirements:
- Pass all technical climbing evaluations (GO/NO-GO)
- Demonstrate proficiency in all required knots
- Successfully complete rappel and climbing assessments
- Pass land navigation practical exam
- Complete survival phase requirements
- Receive satisfactory leadership evaluation
- Peer evaluation acceptance
The Tab Ceremony:
Upon successful completion, graduates participate in the Mountain Tab ceremony. The tab is awarded by cadre and represents proficiency in military mountaineering. Graduates are authorized to wear the Mountain Tab on their uniform for the remainder of their military career.
Post-Course:
Mountain-qualified soldiers are valuable assets to their units. They can serve as unit mountaineering trainers, advise commanders on mountain operations, and lead soldiers in challenging alpine environments. The skills learned at AMWS apply worldwide—from Afghanistan to Korea to training areas across the United States.